The Stalwarts: 7 Classic Toronto Restaurants for a Meal to Remember in The 6

Audrey Brashich July 18, 2017 1 Comment

Given that many restaurants aren’t around long enough to see their first birthday, it’s worth celebrating those that not only make it to the five-year milestone, but that actually become an integral part of a neighborhood or city. At these long-running classic Toronto restaurants, you’ll find some of the best food in the city, plus the perfect blend of tradition, charm, and innovation. So go try them all, and thank us later, eh?

Zucca Trattoria
Know what has sustained Zucca Trattoria for 21 years? “Passion,” explains co-owner Blair Aspinall, who describes his team as passionate about great ingredients and service. Zucca offers Italian, market-driven cuisine that’s more about substance than style. “We’re picky shoppers,” Aspinall says of his sourcing methods. And it results in “food we want to eat.” That includes the current early summer special of a warm asparagus salad served on a bed arugula and finished simply with extra virgin olive oil, Parmesan, and lemon. The menu also features a whole grilled fish (chosen daily at market) prepared with fresh herbs, and locally sourced poultry such as Cornish game hen and Muscovy duck breast. As for the room: It’s warm, intimate and full of energy. Aspinall sums it up this way: “People look forward to being here, and are happy while they’re here.” That — along with a focus on quality over passing trends — is Zucca’s recipe for success. Make a reservation at Zucca Trattoria.

Opus
Not only has this restaurant been serving upscale cuisine since 1992, it has won Wine Spectator’s Grand Award every year since 2002. The secret? Top quality, seasonal products that are allowed to shine. “Every season, we find and fall in love with a few ingredients that the kitchen enjoys working into the menu,” explains chef Jason Cox. This spring, it’s been fresh chickpeas. Over the summer, Cox often incorporates Ontario strawberries, heirloom tomatoes, and corn, which he likes to use in a succotash prepared with chili, onions and fresh herbs. Another summer favorite: relish made with garlic scapes, vinegar and fresh Madagascar vanilla, which Cox pairs with Black Angus steak that’s aged for three months. Cox balances perennial favorites (the seared foie gras appetizer prepared with current purée, and the black pepper-crusted tuna entrée) with inspiration from unexpected places. Unique ingredients discovered while traveling, and a new love for vegetables after his daughter became vegetarian—these are the kind of influences that keep Opus fresh. Make a reservation at Opus.

Sassafraz
Set in three Victorian row houses, Sassafraz blends history with innovation. The space is charming yet current (thanks to its 20 foot, hydroponic living wall); the menu features French classics updated to reflect modern tastes and Canadian influences. Of course, there’s a commitment to locally-sourced, top-quality ingredients, but the real focus of the cuisine that comes out of Sassafraz’s kitchen is intense flavor. Take the sourdough grilled cheese sandwich, which layers aged cheddar, Emmental, and chèvre, or the braised octopus accompanied by sheep’s feta and regional heirloom tomatoes. “Unexpected combinations and depth of flavor” define Sassafraz, according to owner Zoran Kocovski, and help explain its 20 years of success. The restaurant also listens keenly to its clientele in order to deliver a superior dining experience. If diners regularly ask for a dish to be modified, then the menu is amended. And since many now ask about the origin of the ingredients in various dishes, the staff learns key details about their provenance. “We know our clients,” explains Kocovski, “and our clients know what they can expect from us.” And that is how you stay on top of a competitive restaurant scene in a world-class city. Make a reservation at Sassafraz.

360 at CN Tower
We know what you’re thinking. Right about now, you’re assuming the restaurant on top of Toronto’s most recognizable attraction can’t be anything other than a tourist trap. Well, Merry Early Christmas, because that assumption is incorrect. Recently renovated, 360 considers itself a gateway to the best Canada has to offer. In fact, a vast majority of the ingredients used by the kitchen are grown or cultivated within the tower’s 40 kilometer (25 mile) view. Other specialty items are sourced from Canada’s best producers, i.e. lobster from the Maritime provinces, beef from Alberta, wine from British Columbia’s Okanagan region and albacore tuna from the west coast. “We offer consistently excellent products, but are innovative,” explains Peter George, the Director of Food and Beverage at 360. “We follow some food trends, but we also set them. We want the dining experience to be enlightening but not overly challenging.” To that end, the menu offers plenty of familiar classics that have been reinterpreted or updated. In other words: what’s on offer is not your grandmother’s version of terrine, but rather a dish that’s been deconstructed and reassembled using fresh local ingredients and current techniques. The same goes for the desserts, which is why at 360, you can enjoy your cookie with a traditional flavor like vanilla bean, or go contemporary with salted caramel. Make a reservation at 360.

Scaramouche
In business since 1980, Scaramouche is all about consistency, quality and the trust it has built up with its clientele. “Hipster trends? That’s not us,” explains Carl Korte. “Our core menu doesn’t change.” Instead, Scaramouche is about sophisticated cuisine with an ever-evolving skyline view. In the main restaurant, you’ll find classic dishes kept current by their presentation and accompaniments. The scallops are served with spicy caper butter; the veal with warm parmesan custard. In the more casual Pasta Bar & Grill, the Spaghetti Chitarra features Neopolitan-style meatballs while the grilled asparagus comes with shaved, smoked prosciutto. “We’re defined by our history and setting” explains Korte. “That’s what earned us a place in the city.” Make a reservation at Scaramouche.

Vancouver Chef David Hawksworth on Canadian Cuisine, Food Memories + Dining Trends

Audrey Brashich March 17, 2017 2 Comments

You haven’t really eaten out in Vancouver until you’ve dined at one of chef David Hawksworth’s local establishments, Hawksworth or Nightingale. As one of his nation’s leading chefs, Hawksworth has helped solidify Vancouver’s culinary standing by highlighting Canada’s off-the-dial quality ingredients and always using an honest, simple approach to preparing food. Here, he talks about cooking at home, the future of Canadian cuisine, and how not to prepare cauliflower.

Which ingredients get you excited to get into the kitchen and cook?

Any fresh fish that I can get my hands on, especially wild salmon in the early spring. When it comes to the preparation, I keep things as light as possible. If the weather has already warmed up, I pair it with citrus.

Do you think a main dish should be served with sides, or should each dish stand alone?

My restaurants here in Vancouver take polar opposite approaches to this. At Nightingale, it’s all about separate dishes prepared as simply as possible so we can show off the ingredients. If I do a wild salmon with artichoke, those will pretty much be the only primary ingredients. It can be hard sometimes for chefs to pull back and be okay with that kind of simplicity, but it’s so much better than overcomplicating everything.

At Hawksworth, however, we focus on making sure that a whole dish — and all of its flavors — work together.

Favourite Vancouver Restaurants: 6 Vancity Neighborhood Gems

Audrey Brashich February 28, 2017 3 Comments

Vancouver has snowcapped mountains, a walkable downtown, and a killer culinary scene. Yet while there are impressive flagship restaurants helmed by famous Canadian chefs and recommended widely to tourists who are passing through en route to nearby world-class ski resorts or before departing on Alaskan cruises — that’s not where locals eat.

Vancouverites go in for hyper-local, micro-prepped fare that reflects the city’s increasingly international vibe. They seek out authenticity, quality, and style—and they value attentive friendly service. Atmosphere and creativity are big here, and you can find it at these favourite Vancouver restaurants beloved by locals and in-the-know visitors alike.

The Oakwood
Only a few blocks from the beach, Kitsilano’s vibrant 4^th Avenue is lined with some of the city’s cutest boutiques and leading coffee bars. It’s also home to The Oakwood and its heated patio, roaring indoor fireplace, and rustic furniture. Though plenty of local restaurants have a farm-to-table focus, The Oakwood sources the best Canada has to offer. That means superior beef from Alberta, renowned duck from Quebec, and fresh West Coast seafood. Dishes are served tapas-style as they are ready. They also don’t include any “filler” sides like rice or potatoes, which frees up diners to try out more options, such as the perfect burger served with a “Gulf Island dressing” (their take on a traditional Thousand Island dressing made with Dijon, honey, smoked paprika, and hot sauce), and the to-die-for warm kale salad that includes roasted cauliflower and Brussels sprouts and is topped with a lemon Parmesan dressing. According to general manager Tristan Young, The Oakwood’s X factor is that everything is done in-house. “We bake our own brioche buns, so we can control the texture. We salt and cure our own bacon. We grind all the meat on site rather than order patties from a purveyor,” Young explains. The result: a bistro that’s reimagining comfort food and winning over discerning locals. Make a reservation at The Oakwood.

Osteria Savio Volpe
The newest addition to the eclectic intersection near Kingsway and 15^thin Mt. Pleasant, Savio Vople turns out beautifully unaffected Italian dishes featuring top-quality ingredients that are as unadulterated as possible. To chef Mark Perrier, a seasonal menu doesn’t mean options that are switched up four times per year. It means varying about 20% of the menu daily, depending on the ingredients available from his local purveyors. The items that stay on the menu week in and week out —his meatballs, the garlic bread, a kale salad — don’t rely on seasonal produce that can be difficult to source or that is substandard during various seasons. Plus, his style isn’t fussy or trendy, but, rather, concentrates on items that work together and that people want to eat. “It’s basically peasant-style cooking,” Perrier explains. “I let the farmers and ingredients inform the menu rather than coming up with concepts and shopping for them.” Regulars also know to book early in the evening because the kitchen spit roasts a whole suckling pig every night. However, since it yields only about 15 portions, the dish — with its ever-changing sides and sauces — usually sells out by about 6:30PM. “I’m excited about all the things that are available to cook right now,” says Perrier. “Wild mushrooms, cabbage, and root vegetables. And, in the spring, I’ll be excited about everything there is to cook up then.” In other words, no matter when you go, you can’t lose. Make a reservation at Osteria Savio Volpe.

The Union
Straddling Chinatown and Strathcona, The Union is all about sharing. The portions are generous, the seating is comprised of communal long tables and benches, and the atmosphere is chatty. In fact, don’t be surprised if you leave having become besties with your neighbors while sampling dishes inspired by pan-Asian cuisine informed by Thai, Indonesian, and Malaysian flavors. Longtime menu favorites include the Pho Bo (short rib in a spiced broth with a side of bean sprouts, Thai basil, and chilis) plus Cha Ca Hanoi (a pacific cod paired with fresh greens, coconut milk, herbs, and nuoc cham—the Vietnamese dipping sauce made with garlic, lime, and fish sauce). Also a draw: the unique cocktails infused with locally-sourced teas, syrups made to order, and “drinking vinegars” that combine flavors like wolfberry and hibiscus with soda water to make refreshing probiotic-infused drinks. “If the group next to you is having a good time, well, that can be contagious,” explains general manager Timothy Van Dipten. That’s the vibe at The Union – and it’s what keeps locals coming back. Make a reservation at The Union.

Nomad
At Nomad, everything starts with the quality of food that goes into — and then comes out of — the kitchen. The restaurant sources much of its food from top-notch family farms in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley. “Our customers really like supporting a local business that’s supporting other local businesses,” explains Taylor Burnham, one of Nomad’s managing partners. Plus, he adds, people are seeking the same high caliber, organic items in restaurants that they are at their local markets. Regulars also love that Nomad is willing to tweak dishes to suit diners’ various food sensitivities or preferences and that it acts as a sort of community hub. The restaurant has not only made its space available for a local elementary school’s fundraiser, but they also go big with grab-and-go food (like the slow-cooked pulled pork sandwich served with kimchi) during the neighborhood’s annual Car Free Day in June. Those in the know never forget to order the fried calamari, which is brined and then sous vided before being flash grilled. Another favorite: the sunchoke “wings” served with a black garlic sauce. You’re welcome! Make a reservation at Nomad.

Let’s Get Small: Top Tiny Restaurants Serving Big Flavors

Audrey Brashich January 12, 2017 12 Comments

Sure, big showpiece restaurants helmed by celebrity chefs are glamorous and exciting. Their atmosphere makes for great theater, plus they turn out some seriously delicious food. But if you’ve had enough showboating and are seeking less swagger, then check out our picks for the coziest tiny restaurants around the country, where the food is micro-prepped, the atmosphere is intimate, and the experience often includes a ringside seat to the chef’s open kitchen.

MKT, Seattle, Washington
With only 28 seats (six tables and ten seats at the chef’s counter), MKT makes it feel like you’re sitting around the kitchen island of a very good cook rather than in a renowned outpost of chef Ethan Stowell’s mini-empire. And that’s why diners love it. “When people are seated at tables or in booths, they’re in their own little world,” says chef Alvin Go, who interacts with guests as he preps, and watches complete strangers connect while asking questions about each other’s meals. “At MKT, everyone interacts with each other.” To complement all this coziness, MKT is offering plenty of items cooked on its wood fire grill, including seared duck breast with pickled huckleberry. There’s also porcini ricotta ravioli, and several dishes integrate local apples, and quince (which comes from neighbors’ fruit trees.).Make a reservation at MKT.

Loosie’s Kitchen, Brooklyn, New York
Steps away from the Williamsburg Bridge, hidden behind Loosie’s Rouge, a bar with killer cocktails and Cajun-inspired small plates…there’s Loosie’s Kitchen, which has just 30 seats in the off-season (the number doubles in summertime thanks to an outdoor area). Come for the family-style dishes of fried chicken with house pickles and hot sauce, the duck confit with a shepherd’s pie, the macaroni with bacon, and the Nutella beignets — but stay for the impromptu games of Twister, the Hangover Brunch (dress code: pajamas), or maybe even a yoga class (No kidding. The staff puts these events on at random, which adds to the tight-knit community vibe). If you go, also prepare to be dazzled by high design, both in the décor and on the plate. There’s lots of white (painted bricks, oversized plates) paired with splashes of color and warm, natural wood. And given all that Loosie’s has going on, count on leaving full and with a slew of new BFFs. Make a reservation at Loosie’s Kitchen

Joe and Misses Doe, New York, New York
The best way to describe this place: a quirky mom-and-pop establishment smack dab in the middle of the big city with ambitious and totally successful food. Ya feelin’ the vibe yet? With only 26 seats and a 100-square-foot kitchen, Joe and Misses Doe will dazzle you with its four-course chef’s menu (choice of appetizer and entrée, set dessert, and a bread courses) that changes every two weeks. “Our space is unassuming,” explains Jill Dobias, who owns the restaurant with her husband, chef Joe Dobias, “but prepare to be wowed by what Joe creates.” Because it’s small, the restaurant gets to work with highly-focused purveyors who turn out top quality products in small batches. The result: a devoted clientele who sometimes cram in several visits during a two-week period to enjoy a menu a few times before it’s switched out. Make a reservation at Joe and Misses Doe.