City of Gold: Intrepid Dining Tips from Food Critic Jonathan Gold

Pulitzer Prize-winning insatiably curious eater and Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold, star of the new documentary City of Gold, shares how dining out is one of the best ways to discover a city, whether traveling or in your hometown.

Jonathan Gold

Finding a city’s hidden gem eateries — be it a dusty food truck with incredible fried fish tacos or a counter spot in a dingy strip mall slinging life-changing pho — is far more than an Instagrammable form of epicurean off-roading. It awakens us to the oft-underappreciated mosaic of cuisines and cultures that make up our cities’ landscapes.

For Jonathan Gold, longtime food critic at the L.A. Times and star of a documentary on this very subject, dining out has always been about uncovering culinary treasures — a quest that started in his early 20s with a mission to try every hole-in-the-wall restaurant and ethnic street vendor on a 15-mile stretch of LA’s Pico Boulevard.

Last month while in Chicago promoting the release of City of Gold, he caught up with OpenTable for a little Intrepid Dining: 101. From scouting foreign-language message boards for restaurant tips to eating at (literally) every Indonesian noodle house, he shared advice on how to discover — or perhaps re-discover — a city’s culture through its food.

Was there a certain cuisine or experience when you were starting out that sparked your curiosity?

I did this thing right after college when I was bored out of my mind working as a proofreader at a law newspaper – I decided to eat at every restaurant on Pico Boulevard. It was at the time of the wars in Central America, so there was a lot of new immigration there and a lot of new places, from street vendors to tiny little restaurants.

I’d grown up in LA and driven down this street before thinking those restaurants were monolithically Mexican because everything was in Spanish. And then you start going from door to door and you go, wait a second, this one’s Guatemalan, this one’s Nicaraguan, this one’s from El Salvador, this one’s from Mexico but it’s Jalisco, and this one’s also Mexican but it’s Sinaloa so the food is completely different. Then you do it a little more and you see which ones have big city or European influences because their menus are more continental.

It wasn’t even the actual basic things being served. It was just the knowledge that this wasn’t monolithic, that what had seemed like one big thing turned out to be this mosaic — an endless, tessellated grid of culture. And it was so good.

What’s your strategy for finding under-the-radar restaurants?

I do it a million different ways. I will go down certain streets and eat at every single restaurant. I’ll spend hours on message boards in foreign languages with Google translate, like Weibo, the Chinese Facebook. I also find that going to a restaurant that looks like the center of a community probably means what you’ll find there will be pretty good. It may not be the absolute best one. But then what I’ll do is eat at all of the Indonesian noodle houses to tell you which one is the best one.

How long does that usually take you?

Sometimes that takes quite awhile, other times not so much. I tend to try to spread them out, but there always comes a time where it will be six places in a weekend.

Is there anything that would make you skip a place? Your strategy seems to be to try pretty much everything.

Yeah, well (laughs), I don’t like being bored. One kind of restaurant I tend not go to is actually lounge restaurants. I find the food tends to be really subsidiary to what else is going on there. Or if I’m looking at an Italian restaurant and it has exactly the same menu that every other Italian restaurant has, there’s no point in going there.

Jonathan Gold

For the average diner experiencing a certain cuisine for the first time, how should they set themselves up for a successful meal? Continue Reading

How One Restaurant Critic Had His Cake (Without Gaining Weight)

how-one-restaurant-critic-had-his-cakeAs Frank Bruni hangs up his restaurant critic’s hat for The New York Times, he reveals his strategies for staying slim while dining out repeatedly at many of the Big Apple’s restaurants, old and new.

Turns out Mr. Bruni had fought and lost the battle of the bulge for most of his life, until just before he began his turn as one of the paper’s most famous foodies. During his tenure, he consumed an average of 3,000 calories a day without putting back on the weight he’d lost, through — shocker! — regular exercise and by following five steadfast rules.

I don’t consume 3,000 calories a day every day (emphasis on the “every”), but I do eat out often. My strategies for dining out without regret include trying to make fish and/or salad a part of every meal. Sometimes I fail (Or do I? Does a caviar garnish count as fish?), but not usually. Splitting several dishes is quite effective as well. Two friends and I recently ordered two appetizers, two pasta courses, and two protein-heavy entrees for our table so we could try everything we desired without the guilt. Dessert, too, is made for sharing — unless someone at your table has more than one sweet tooth.

What do you do to avoid overdoing it when dining out? Or is dining out precisely the time you should overdo it?

Dining out with a Food Critic: Reality Bites

Do you dream of being one of the (supposedly) lucky folks who regularly dine out with food critics? Your dream may actually be a bit of a nightmare if you’re not prepared for the realities of what is required of their dining partners. Baltimore Sun restaurant critic Elizabeth Large reveals 10 truths about what you’re in for when you come along for a free meal, including the fact that there’s no such thing as free lunch (or dinner).

I haven’t had the pleasure (or displeasure, depending on your perspective) of dining out with a food critic, and it might be fun to do once. In general, though, I’d rather dine out as a civilian, if you will, than as a critic. I loathe looking for fault at restaurants as I’ve spent a good part of my life working at them and I know too well how hard it is to get everything right on any given night — the food, the service, the setting, and a thousand other variables. Also, I’m a firm believer that our enjoyment of many of life’s pleasures, dining included, is contextual. If you’re in good company, in a good mood, or simply having a good day, you’re probably going to have a good time. If you’re in a foul mood? Not so much.