Posts Tagged ‘Chicago Tribune’

What the Aughts Wrought: Terrible Trends in Dining?

Thursday, October 29th, 2009

Restaurant Trends What the Aughts Wrought: Terrible Trends in Dining?The Chicago Tribune has tongues wagging over their recent list of the “10 Worst Dining Trends of the Last Decade.” Industry heavyweights weigh in, including David Chang of Momofuku fame and Epicurious.com’s Tanya Steele. Dissed and dismissed are trios of sliders, molecular gastronomy, and communal tables, among others.

Everyone’s entitled to her or his opinion — and they’re also entitled to mine. First, I happen to love sliders (especially those served curbside at Old Homestead). The ubiquitous trio of sliders that haunt other menus may seem a bit tiresome, but my real beef (pun, intended) with them is that many things are called sliders — yet most are not. I consider a slider to be a diminutive beef burger on a similarly sized bun (see also Castle, White). Grilled cheese sliders? Lobster sliders? Meatball sliders? They may be tasty, but, please, call them something else.

Molecular gastronomy is either everyone’s darling or everyone’s favorite whipping post. I believe what chefs, such as Wylie Dufresne of wd-50, are doing is daring, inventive, and innovative. Challenging expectations about what’s on your plate adds the elements of mystery and surprise to dining out. And, as someone who has had the pleasure of studying briefly with Dave Arnold, L’Ecole’s resident mad gastronomical scientist, immersion cooking and manipulating ingredients’ textures and appearances are mind-blowing good fun. It’s not for everyone, but what’s wrong with a few select chefs thinking outside the oven?

The communal table comes under fire, too. I actually think of these as more a construct of the nineties (in this country, at least) and, in truth, I enjoy them. I first dined (stateside) at Asia de Cuba’s elegant shared table and had a lively and delicious meal. I returned twice more and sat at private tables, but neither was quite as enjoyable as that collective experience. The Baltimore Sun concurs that communal tables can, indeed, create a more social meal.

Premature and reactionary (and, oftentimes, unverified) restaurant reviews are also cited. Even if you understand how difficult working at — or running! — a restaurant is, imagine how tough it is to open one from the ground up. As someone who’s both a diner and a former restaurant worker, I think every business deserves a modest grace period, even beyond the soft opening, to find its feet before being subjected to stringent, critical scrutiny.

There are some points I agree with on the Tribune’s list. (I still can’t discuss, without gagging, the particulars of a foie gras foam I once attempted to choke down.) However, the trends of the aughts that I think ought to go the way of “Bennifer” include*: Lollipop-style meats. Restaurant staff who are as chilly as liquid nitrogen. Overpriced comfort foods. Martini and/or “signature cocktail” lists. Panna cotta. Establishments that neglect to put salt on the table. Short ribs. Specials that are too numerous and involved for anyone to remember (”What was the second part of the fifth special?”). And, obviously, bottled water.

What dining and restaurant trends are you tired of? Weigh in here or over on Facebook.

*Disclaimer: Excepting aloof restaurant staffers, expensive dishes, environmentally incorrect water, and a lack of salt, all of these items are actually perfectly acceptable — in small portions.

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Are You a Foodie? Take the Tribune’s Quiz

Friday, July 10th, 2009

Do you consider yourself a gastronome? A gourmet A connoisseur of fine cuisine? The Chicago Tribune has created a clever quiz to test your foodie I.Q., featuring everything from offbeat ingredients to hard-to-pronounce preparations. Take it here, to see if your knowledge is as impressive as your appetite.

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American Cuisine: What Does It Really Mean?

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

america American Cuisine: What Does It Really Mean?OpenTable diners recently selected their 50 favorite restaurants for American cuisine. But the Chicago Tribune’s Bill Daley wonders if anyone can even agree on what American cuisine specifically refers to. The James Beard Foundation posits that the U.S. is a nation of regional cuisines rather than one with a unifying national style of cooking. However, the wise Wylie Dufresne, the American master of molecular gastronomy, tells Daley, “What I like about the term ‘American cuisine’ is that it can encompass ingredients and techniques from around the world because that’s what it is.”

While the winners of the OpenTable 2009 Diners’ Choice awards for Best American Cuisine may vary in both method and menus, all do precisely what Mr. Dufresne, chef-owner of wd-50,  asserts — and, according to you, they do it very well.

Reserve a table to celebrate our country’s birthday in style this weekend.

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Restaurant Review Roundup: Word on the Street

Monday, June 15th, 2009

Trying to decide where to eat? Want a little professional help? Read about these recently (and positively) reviewed restaurants — and book a table to judge for yourself.

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Best of the Rest(rooms)

Thursday, June 4th, 2009

best restrooms Best of the Rest(rooms)The best seat in the house may not be in the dining room at some restaurants. The Chicago Tribune spotlights the nominees for America’s best public restrooms. Included on the list are Canlis restaurant in Seattle, Washington, the Palm Court at Chicago’s Drake Hotel, and Zeffirino at the Venetian Resort and Hotel in Las Vegas. Sponsored by Cintas Corporation, the contest has been held since 2002. You can take a virtual tour of these and other impressive powder rooms (one even features a mahogany pool table) and vote for your favorite through July 31, 2009, here.

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